There’s something almost primal about wanting a fireplace. It’s the centerpiece that turns a living room into a gathering place, the thing that makes a house feel like a home on a cold night. But getting from “I want a fireplace” to actually lighting one takes more steps than some homeowners expect. Here’s a breakdown of what that whole process looks like from start to finish.
Step One: Initial Property Scoping
Before anyone talks about brick, gas lines or mantels, a C Bennett fireplace specialist needs to walk your property and figure out what’s actually possible.
The scoping visit typically covers:
- Structural Assessment – Can your floor and framing support the weight of a masonry fireplace, or are you better suited to a lighter, prefabricated unit?
- Wall and Ceiling Access – Is there a clear, safe path to run a chimney or vent pipe through the roof or exterior wall?
- Clearance Requirements – Building codes dictate minimum distances between a fireplace and combustible materials like wood framing, furniture and flooring. The contractor measures your space against these codes early, since they can rule out certain fireplace types entirely.
- Existing Infrastructure – If you already have a chimney or gas line nearby, that changes both the cost and complexity dramatically. If not, the specialist needs to scope a path to bring one in.
This visit usually results in a rough feasibility assessment and a ballpark cost range, which sets the stage for every decision that follows.
Step two: Choosing Your Fireplace Type
Once you know what’s structurally possible, it’s time to pick a fireplace type. The main options are:
- Wood-Burning Masonry – The classic option, built from brick or stone with a true chimney. Most expensive and labor-intensive, but hard to beat for overall ambiance.
- Wood-Burning Prefabricated – A factory-built metal unit that’s insulated enough to sit closer to combustible walls. Faster and Faster cheaper to install than masonry.
- Gas – Runs on natural gas or propane, offers instant on/off convenience and can be vented or ventless depending on local code.
- Electric – The simplest option. No venting required, plugs into a standard electrical outlet and can go almost anywhere.
Your choice here affects everything downstream: permitting, venting requirements, installation, timeline and cost.
Step Three: Permits and Code Compliance
With a fireplace type selected, your specialist will pull the necessary permits from your local building department. This step is easy to underestimate, but skipping it can cause real problems if you ever sell the house or file an insurance claim after a fire-related incident.
Permitting typically involves:
- Submitting plans showing the fireplace location, venting path and clearances.
- Verifying compliance with local fire codes and EPA emissions standards (especially for wood-burning units).
- Scheduling any required inspections at the rough-in and final stages.
Timelines vary widely by municipalities, but typically it can take anywhere from a few days to several weeks.
Step Four: Design and Material Selection
This is the fun part! Now you’re picking:
- Firebox size and style.
- Facing materials (brick, stone veneer, tile, shiplap, plaster, etc.).
- Mantel style and material.
- Hearth extension and material.
- Trim, doors and screens for gas or wood units.
You’ll work with your design specialist to make sure the fireplace fits the room’s overall style rather than looking like an afterthought.
Step Six: Inspection Checkpoint
Many jurisdictions require an inspection once the rough-in is complete but before walls are closed up. The inspector will check clearances, venting and gas line connections (if applicable). This is a critical checkpoint. Catching an issue now is far cheaper than discovering it after the walls are completed.
Step Seven: Finishing and Facing
With rough-in approved, the crew moves on to the visible parts of the job:
- Installing the surround material (brick, stone, tile, etc.).
- Building or installing the hearth.
- Mounting the mantel.
- Patching and painting surrounding drywall.
- Installing doors, screens or glass fronts.
This phase is where the fireplace actually starts to look like the finished product you envisioned.
Step Eight: Final Inspection and Testing
Once everything is installed, there’s typically a final inspection to confirm the completed fireplace meets code. For gas units, this includes testing the gas line for leaks and confirming the pilot light or ignition system works correctly. For wood-burning units, the inspector checks the chimney draft and clearances one last time.
Step Nine: Curing Time (For Masonry Fireplaces)
If you went the traditional masonry route, don’t plan on a fire right away. Mortar and any refractory materials inside the firebox need time to cure -often times severy weeks- before the fireplace can handle its first real fire. Rushing this step can crack the masonry.
Step Ten: First Burn and Homeowner Walkthrough
Finally, your installer will walk you through:
- How to safely operate the fireplace (lighting procedures, damper use, glass door operation)
- Recommended maintenance schedule including chimney sweeping for wood-burning units.
- Warranty information for the unit and installation labor.
For wood-burning fireplaces, the first fire is often kept small and short to let materials fully acclimate to heat.
A Realistic Timeline
Start to finish, a straightforward electric fireplace install might take a single day. A gas fireplace with new gas line work often runs one to two weeks. A full masonry fireplace and chimney, including permitting, framing and curing time can take six to twelve weeks from that first scoping visit to your first fire.
Whichever route you take, the through-line is the same: a good outcome depends on getting the early steps right. A thorough initial scoping visit that honestly assesses your home’s structure and layout saves you from expensive surprises later – and it’s the single best predictor of how smoothly the rest of the project goes.
